The Top Finds
Vintage Asscher Cut Green Emerald and Diamond Ring

Aurate New York

Vintage Asscher Cut Green Emerald and Diamond Ring

Reviewed by the The Top Finds editors · How we test

$3,298$5,49740%
Check price at Aurate New York

You'll complete your purchase on Aurate New York's site · price checked May 20

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new-arrival

Best for

Someone shopping for a genuinely unique engagement ring or statement piece who trusts authentication over spec sheets and values one-of-a-kind provenance over a new, returnable design.

Skip if

You want a specific stone grade, a grading report, return flexibility, or a ring that isn't exactly size 5 — this piece offers none of those.

Price tier

Luxury

$3298

The verdict

A one-of-a-kind vintage Asscher-cut emerald ring authenticated by Louis Martin Jewelers — the kind of piece you inherit, not buy on a whim — and at $3,298 it's priced like the heirloom it already is.

What we love

  • Authenticated by Louis Martin Jewelers — a named, traceable expert since 1978
  • One-of-a-kind: no production run, no duplicates
  • 18k white gold setting with an Asscher-cut emerald — a genuinely elegant combination
  • Buying vintage is materially more sustainable than new fine jewelry
  • Honest listing: wear and imperfections disclosed upfront

Worth knowing

  • Final sale — no returns, and Aurate's lifetime warranty explicitly does not apply
  • Size 5 only; resizing vintage rings is possible but adds cost and risk depending on setting
  • Stone grades (emerald quality, diamond carat/cut/clarity) are not disclosed — you're trusting the authentication, not a grading report
  • At $3,298, it's a significant spend on a piece you can't examine in person before buying

Our review

What it is

This isn't a ring Aurate designed and put into production. It's a singular vintage find that Aurate sourced alongside Louis Martin, a New York jeweler with nearly five decades of authentication expertise. The stone is a green emerald cut in the Asscher style — that stepped, square geometry with clipped corners that peaked in the Art Deco era and never really went out of fashion among people who know rings. It sits in an 18k white gold setting, and the listing notes diamond accents, though the exact carat weight and stone grades aren't disclosed. That's standard for vintage; it's not evasion.

The Asscher cut and why it matters

Asscher cuts show inclusions more readily than brilliant cuts — the open table and parallel facets make the stone legible in a way that a modern round brilliant isn't. For an emerald, that's almost beside the point. Emeralds are graded differently from diamonds; "jardin" (the internal fractures and inclusions visible inside the stone) is considered part of the gem's character, not a defect. If you're expecting diamond-grade clarity in an emerald, recalibrate. The green here should be vivid enough to anchor a white-gold setting without competing with it.

Vintage means one of one

This is a final-sale, one-of-a-kind piece. Size 5. There is no second unit. If it doesn't fit your finger, resizing vintage rings is possible but not always straightforward — it depends on the setting style and shank thickness, neither of which are specified here. We'd contact Aurate before purchasing if you're not a standard size 5.

The wear and imperfections mentioned in the listing are real. Vintage jewelry that's been worn and loved will show it under a loupe. The listing is honest about this, which we appreciate. It's not damage — it's provenance.

Aurate's role here

Aurate is primarily a fine jewelry brand known for modern, minimal pieces. Their vintage curation is newer territory, and Louis Martin is doing the heavy lifting on sourcing and authentication. That partnership matters: Louis Martin Watch Department has been operating since 1978 and has a phone number listed for warranty service. This is not a vintage aesthetic applied to a new piece — it's the real thing, with a real expert vouching for it.

Noting: Aurate's own lifetime warranty does not apply to this piece. Louis Martin covers it. Keep that contact information (212-245-5566) if you buy.

On the price

$3,298 for a vintage emerald and diamond ring in 18k white gold is plausible. Comparable pieces at estate jewelry dealers or auction houses range widely — condition, provenance, and stone quality drive everything. Without knowing the carat weight or emerald grade, we can't benchmark it precisely. What we can say is that authentication from a named, traceable expert with a 46-year track record is worth something real, and Aurate's retail platform makes the purchase process smoother than navigating a traditional estate dealer.

Bottom line

If you're buying this, you're buying a specific stone in a specific setting that no one else will have. That's the point.

Common questions

Vintage Asscher Cut Green Emerald and Diamond Ring, answered

Is this ring covered by Aurate's lifetime warranty?

No. Vintage pieces sold through Aurate's vintage curation are final sale and explicitly excluded from Aurate's standard lifetime warranty. For warranty service, you contact Louis Martin Watch Department directly at 212-245-5566.

What does 'authenticated by Louis Martin' mean?

Louis Martin Jewelers has operated in New York since 1978 and specializes in vintage jewelry and watches. Authentication means they've verified the piece's materials, age, and condition — it's a named expert vouching for the item, not a generic platform claim.

Can the ring be resized from size 5?

The listing doesn't address resizing. Vintage rings can sometimes be resized, but it depends on the shank style and setting construction — resizing too far can stress a vintage piece. Contact Aurate before purchasing if you're not a size 5.

What's an Asscher cut emerald?

Asscher cut is a square step-cut with cropped corners, developed in the early 20th century. Applied to an emerald, it emphasizes the stone's color depth and internal character ('jardin') over sparkle. It's a distinctly vintage look — less flashy than a brilliant cut, more architectural.

Is buying a vintage emerald ring sustainable?

More so than buying new. No new mining, no new production. The environmental cost of this piece was incurred decades ago. For buyers who care about the footprint of fine jewelry, vintage is the most defensible option.

What condition should I expect for a vintage ring at this price?

The listing is upfront: this piece may show signs of wear and have imperfections. That's normal and expected for vintage fine jewelry — it's not a flaw, it's history. If you need showroom-flawless condition, a new piece is the better fit.

Ready to buy

Vintage Asscher Cut Green Emerald and Diamond Ring

Check price at Aurate New York

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Aurate New York

$3298$5497

Check price at Aurate New York